The Hallmarks of a Quality Suit & Blazer

It’s easy to spot a quality suit if you know where to look. From hand-set collar to pick stitching, interior lining to Neapolitan seams —learn about the quality and craftsmanship that goes into every stitch, accent & detail of our suits.

You wouldn’t think it, but a lot can be learned by a quick look at the collar. In a quality suit, fastening the collar is a labor-intensive process requiring up to 20 skilled hands. To ensure the seams are as thin as possible, the fabric should be folded and hand-sewn back onto itself—this hides the excess fabric which a tailor can later re-cut or re-shape, if needed.

A quality lapel should be lightly padded on the inside with a constructed canvas, and should have 1000’s of stitches to give it volume and prevent it from flattening. Unlike cheaper lapel constructions, which are pressed to a sharp, flat crease, a roll creates a rich, dynamic fluidity that eventually takes on the wearer’s shape—this is a key giveaway of a quality crafted lapel.

Learn more about canvas construction

Named after the Italian word for a small boat, a barchetta pocket is a welted chest pocket with a gently curved opening resembling the shape of a boat. A time-intensive accent requiring an experienced hand, this Italian detail complements the shape of the lapel roll and follows your body shape more naturally—all while creating the illusion of height and providing some traditional flair.

Pick stitching, also known as AMF stitching after the sophisticated machine that creates it, is stitching that lies along the edge of the jacket, shoulder, lapel and pockets. A true sign of expert craftsmanship, this detail not only keeps the lining in place, but it also keeps the edges sharp and prevents rolling and curling.

Officially known as surgeon cuffs, as they were made for 19th century surgeons needing to roll up their sleeves, functional cuff are just that—cuffs that you can button or unbutton. While most suits feature fixed buttons that are purely aesthetic, functional buttonholes give you more versatility.

An unseen and underappreciated detail that makes a huge difference when it comes to comfort and mobility, an after-dinner split is a small split in the top center of the back of the waistband that grants a bit of give when sitting. Though miniscule in size, it’s a big indicator of quality constructed trousers... and a much needed feature after any large meal.